My First Trip to Ouray
First trip to Ouray
As an avid ice climber, I can say my first trip to Ouray was long overdue. Most times, when I mention to friends (both climber and non-climber) that I love to ice climb, they usually immediately mention Ouray. For the most part, it’s because they are trying to draw a connection with ice climbing since most people don’t ice climb. Being my 3rd season on ice, I figured it was finally time to make a trip down to southern Colorado to see what all the fuss is about.
For those not well versed in why Ouray is the “mecca” of ice climbing, Ouray hosts the “Ouray Ice Park”, which was founded by a bunch of misfits back in the 70’s and 80’s. Originally, these climbers would illegally poke holes in the water pipes running across the rim of the gorge in order to form huge ice waterfalls. Today, huge water redirection pipes have been installed along with massive sprayers all across the gorge to create the huge ice climbs known today. The practice is known as “ice farming”, and has a very specific process in place to make sure the ice is of climbable quality. Generally, frozen waterfalls that form in nature are substantially smaller and more difficult to find, versus one compares the availability to say, available rock to climb. Ouray now hosts one of the largest concentrations of ice climbs in the world due to the practice of ice farming.
The opening scene in the Ouray Ice Park as one walks in
My climbing partner, Jeff and I, had 4 days to explore in the park and around the vicinity. Unfortunately, due to new snow and avalanche conditions, this threw an unfortunate wrench in our backcountry plans. While there was plenty of ice to climb in the park, Jeff and I had our sights on a few backcountry ice climbs to get in while we were in the area. After looking at the forecast on Saturday, and with a so-called approaching winter storm, we decided to climb in the park for our first day.
Day 1- Day at the Park
The Ouray Ice park in of itself has many different sections depending on skill level, sun direction, access, and location within the park. On day 1, we decided to climb in an area called “South Park”, which was a 10 minute walk from entrance. Generally, in pairs, one climber will set up the anchor at the top of the gorge while the other climber scrambles to the bottom to give info on the climbs to the partner on the top setting up the anchor. Jeff went and set up the top rope while I hung around at the bottom.
Our ice climb of the day in the center of the photo
Before I begin with describing climbs, it is probably noteworthy to list what climbing grades mean. WI= water ice, and the level goes up based on difficulty of the ice. If you would like to know the different numbers, I encourage a quick google search.
For our first day, we spent the day doing single pitch climbs. I wasn’t feeling particularly great, I woke up with a sore throat, and swollen tonsils. Nevertheless, It was localized to my throat and was feeling good enough to still climb. The climb in the photo, was rated WI4-5, which means it was highly technical ice. I am usually adamant about doing warmup climbs before harder climbs, but I chose this line on the ice because I heard it is usually highly sought after by other climbers. I completed 3 laps on this climb, which takes surprisingly longer, and consumes much more energy than one thinks.
In the park, one is only supposed to be on a specific climb for 3 hours, to keep the flow of the park and allow others to climb on specific routes. After the 3 climbs, we moved on to lead some other routes. Jeff and I both led 2- WI3 climbs. These climbs felt pretty easy, and smooth going.
After Jeff and I did our leads, I wasn’t particularly feeling well, so Jeff and I decided to call it a day around 3pm. We headed back to the hotel to rest.
Day 2- Charmin Tube (WI4)
Day 2 was the highlight of the entire trip, however I did not sleep well the night before. I didn’t get any deep sleep, and I was clearly fighting some mild infection. However, in the morning, I seemed to turn around just enough to go out and climb. The night before, Jeff and I decided to go and check out a route called “Charmin Tube”, rated as WI4, which was located a short walk outside of Ouray. The climb is hidden from town, which makes it a “hidden gem”, when the climb is formed. We drove to the parking area, and started the hike up. The hike was easy and straightforward. As we entered the amphitheater of the climb, my eyes widened, and my stomach dropped a bit. The sheer magnitude of this frozen tower was unlike anything I have seen or climbed in a great while. The waterfall and surrounding atmosphere was jaw-dropping. The waterfall was large and fat at the bottom, yet seemed to thin up to an impossibly narrow tube of ice near the top that looked difficult to figure out. The frozen tower’s ore was only exasperated by the fact that it was surrounded by 300 ft. rock walls in all directions. It was a true masterpiece crafted by mother nature.
The 200 ft. tall Charmin Tube. Our orange backpacks are in the bottom right corner for scale.
I usually don’t get puckered with most climbs, because I know that once I actually start climbing, it is not as scary as it looks. I must admit, with this climb, I was very nervous. I also knew my partner Jeff, was not wanting to lead it. Despite my nervousness, I knew I could do it, and the regret I would face backing off from it because I was nervous would eat away at me for a very long time. Low and behold, I set off, and began the climb. The bottom section went smooth, and because the entire climb was almost 200 ft., I put in an ice screw about halfway up the climb to take a rest and gather some composure.
The upper section of the climb was the crux (the hardest part), so I knew I need to be focused. For some reason, I decided it was a good idea to use my half ropes as twin ropes, and clip both ropes into each ice screw as I went up. This was a grave mistake, because it caused immense rope drag the further I moved up the waterfall. This made it increasingly difficult to pull the rope up to clip in each screw, and sometimes I would have to clip one rope at a time. Not only very tedious, but on occasion I would get the ropes twisted in the screw which caused me to have to downclimb, hang, and fix the errors below me. Incredibly frustrating to say the least. On a very wandering route such as this one, I should have clipped one rope to ice screws that were on my left, and the other rope to ice screws that were on my right to avoid so much rope drag. Nevertheless, slowly, I worked my way to the top. The very end of the climb was the most delicate, with only about 2-3 ft of ice to work with on each side and having to make a very delicate traverse up and over the final hump. The top- out was strange, with the ice disappearing and me having to hook a tool on some rock to make the move. The thinning ice was buried in snow, so I had to be careful to trust and put my weight on it. Delicately, I found some solid holds with my pics in some dirt or rock above the climb and was able to belly flop up and over the last section of snowed up rock. After I pulled this maneuver, I set up a belay for Jeff to follow me on the climb. The view back down was spectacular. A nearly 200 ft drop of all ice.
Looking down the waterfall
This particular climb actually had 2 more ice pitches to complete. Due to me not feeling well, and incoming weather, we decided to rappel back down after doing this pitch. Luckily, this pitch was the crux and best pitch of the 3. The rappel was a full 60 meters back down, meaning we had to tie our ropes together to make the rappel and reach the ground. We eventually made it to the ground, hiked out, and relaxed the remainder of the day in prep for the next.
Day 3- Park Day
For day 3, Jeff and I contemplated on backcountry conditions. I was feeling better today, and It snowed a few inches overnight, and so we were skeptical. We wanted to leave the possibility for the last day to be a backcountry day, so we decided today would be a park day. We both wanted to go somewhere different this time, so we decided to go to an area called “New Funtier”. As usual, Jeff took the anchor setup and I took the bottom. The climbs here were much easier than on day 1, and we setup a scrappy, thin climb first. This line was short, easy, but a good warmup. We soon moved to another climb which was one of the harder ones in the area. I took the first toprope lap up it, and I soon decided that felt good enough to lead it.
The route, called “G.N.R” (WI4)
Being a new WI4 leader, leading 2 WI4 steep routes is big for me. This climb was not nearly on the same level as Charmin tube, but still it was steep and required my focus. A few times towards the bottom I had to readjust my feet to get good balance, but overall the climb went smooth and I was very happy to be able to lead it. Climbing is such a mental game, and it is amazing how fearless you are on toprope versus how careful you are on lead. The power of the mind usually takes hold over your physical ability. Jeff led a less steep route over to the left of this climb. We then did a few more toprope laps and then called it a day.
A unique perspective up the ice.
Day 4- Final Day
On day 4, I felt the best physically I have felt all trip. I woke up feeling good, and ready to finish the trip off strong. We decided we wanted to at least go and check out a climb nearby on the outskirts of town called “Dexter Slab” (WI3-4). We were itching to get in one more backcountry climb, however we were cautious about the new snow and avalanche conditions. Avalanches are a winter climber’s worst enemy, usually because it gets in the way of our plans. Contrary to what most people think, climbers generally have a very strong will to live, because this just means we get to climb another day.
When we arrived at Dexter, we quickly realized the climb was mostly buried in the snow. In addition, the snow slopes leading up to the climb looked hazardous, and unconsolidated. We made the unfortunate decision to bail on the climb and head to the park again to climb one more route before we decided to head back. We went to an area in which I cannot remember what it was called, but it was filled with steeper pillars and hard climbs. I figure, what a perfect way to finish off the trip. We both set up the climb together, and rappelled to the bottom one at a time.
Our climb on Day 4
Jeff did a lap, and then it was my turn. I figured, I had been climbing excellent the previous 3 days, this day would be no different. As I started the climb, my body was trying to do it’s normal routine of swinging tools and moving my feet. My brain was having nothing to do with it. I couldn’t hang on like I normally can, my form wasn’t like it normally was, and I got roadblocked about a third way up the climb. Its as almost as if my brain put up a “road closed” sign. I came back down, and tried to reconcile my thoughts on why it happened. I am not new to competitive sports, and the world of sport performance. I eventually put together that my CNS was very fatigued. My body felt great, but my mind was telling me it was time for a rest. After reflecting on my past 3 days, I had pushed myself very hard, and my nervous system needed time to recover. I could recognize this feeling after almost a decade of competitive CrossFit training. I was frustrated, but I knew it had nothing to do with my ability as an ice climber. Just like any sport, you need rest days.
I belayed Jeff on another lap, then we called it good and took our climb down. We hiked back to the car, and started our long journey back home.
Overall thoughts on the trip
Overall, the trip was a success. I was able to climb at the park for the first time, and I completed a spectacular backcountry route, and pushed myself to climb harder. I am always happy when I return safe and without injury. (Although I do have some chronic injuries to heal). I would have liked to do some more backcountry climbs, particularly one called “Stairway to heaven”, but again, the avalanche conditions were far too dangerous. Overall, I am happy with how Jeff and I climbed and worked together over the weekend. I am disappointed I did not feel 100% at the beginning, but I was happy I was still able to make the best of it. It could have been far worse. I am looking forward to going back down to this area of Colorado and climbing more items on my bucket list.
